Chasing Caravaggio in Rome
Summer 2010. I arrived in Rome in the middle of a July heat wave. The parched air hung motionless at street level, smelling of ancient dust and modern pollution. After an hour of slithering through...
View ArticleCaravaggio in Sicily
Wanted for murder in Rome, hounded by creditors and cuckold husbands all over the Italian peninsula, and then finally chased across the Mediterranean by the Knights of Malta, Caravaggio must have felt...
View ArticleIntroduction to Messina
An Englishman arrives on the shores of The Continent—presumably somewhere in Northwestern France—eager to fight in The Crusades. He asks a fellow soldier at the basecamp, “Where do I find a boat to...
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